To keep granite countertops clean, use a microfiber cloth to dust off the surface. Often a microfiber cleaning cloth, even a dry one, is all that is needed for basic cleaning. For times when spills or daily life happen, try to wipe down the granite countertop daily or as needed using only water. Once a week wipe your granite countertops down with a damp cloth and a stone cleaner formulated with a neutral pH.

Never use harsh chemicals or abrasive cleaners on your countertops, even if you think the stain or mess needs it. These types of cleaners can scratch, pit, and etch the surface of the stone permanently. For oily stains that have soaked into the granite, try a poultice made of a cup of flour or baking soda and five tablespoons of dish soap.

Add water to make it the consistency of sour cream or yogurt. Place the solution directly on the stain and cover with plastic wrap overnight, before washing away the poultice. Be sure to gently rinse the countertops and dry thoroughly

Sealing is a regular maintenance task for granite that cannot be ignored. There is a simple test that you can do to determine if your countertops need to be sealed again. Splash a little water on the surface of the countertop, and watch to see if the water sits on the countertop in small bead-like shapes or flows freely. Re-seal the countertop when water splashed on the surface no longer beads up. Be sure to perform this test on areas that get the most use.

It's important to examine your granite at least once a year. Inspect areas to make sure there is no cracking or shifting at the seams. Inspect for stains and scratches as well. If there are stains or damage, contact a stone-care professional for repair. Delaying repair or treatment can lead to larger and more expensive repairs or even the need for a total replacement.

Many homeowners that don't know about or forget to perform these extra seasonal tasks end up with costly repairs.

Glazed tile products should be cleaned routinely with an all-purpose, low VOC, household or commercial cleaner. The product chosen should also be grout joint cleaning compatible. The type of product may vary depending on the tile application and use. A multipurpose spray cleaner, which removes soap scum, hard water deposits and mildew designed for everyday use can be used on wall tile areas in residential baths and showers. A cotton mop, cloth, sponge, or non-metallic brush should be used to apply and agitate cleaner. Rinse the area with clean water and dry thoroughly. Routine cleaners should never contain harsh chemicals as these can damage tile. Acids can damage grout and the glazed surface of the tile. Ammonia can discolor grout.

Regular dust mopping, sweeping, or vacuuming is recommended prior to cleaning with liquid products.  

Unglazed tile should be cleaned routinely with concentrated tile cleaners with a neutral pH for safe regular use. These cleaners are better suited for removing grease, oils, and normal spills from unglazed products. Again these products will vary depending on the application, amount of traffic and the use. The product chosen should also be compatible with the grout.

Glazed ceramic tile should not be sealed. It is recommended that grout be sealed.

If you need to remove a topical sealer or floor wax from a ceramic tile you should use a tile sealer and adhesive remover. Always test a small area first. Apply a liberal amount of undiluted sealer & adhesive remover to a manageable area. Allow it to set without drying until coating or residue softens. Reapply if necessary until sealer softens and can be removed. If necessary, agitate with white nylon scrub pad. Wipe up the residue with a cotton towel or sponge. Rinse thoroughly with clean water. Do not use ceramic sealer removers on natural stone products.

Grout is the material used to fill the spaces between the individual tiles. Grout comes in many colors. While color is important to the final finished look of the tile installation, it has little effect on the functionality of the grout. The purpose of grout is, simply, to fill the joint between the tiles and becomes a permanent, integral component of the finished installation. Grout darkens over time so we recommend that it be sealed regularly to preserve and protect it. Grout can be stained to normalize the color of older grout.

Immediately after tile has been installed and grouted, the new installation should be covered with brown paper to protect it from debris during the remaining construction process. The grout joints should be dampened daily with water using a clean sponge or mop during the first seven days. This procedure facilitates the grout cure and color lock. The paper will allow for two important things: (1) to protect the newly installed tile grout and (2) to allow moisture to escape from the grout as it cures, further protecting the look and utility of the floor. This is an important step in achieving color consistency. Never use plastic or non-absorbent materials to protect freshly installed tile. These types of non-absorbent products will trap moisture, causing the grout to discolor during the curing period. The protective brown paper should remain until construction is complete and the floor is opened for intended (post-construction) use.

Following a curing period of at least 24 hours, grout haze can be removed with plain water or a grout haze remover, which usually contains Sulfamic acid. Sulfamic acid can also be purchased in powder form and mixed with water to different strengths by qualified professionals. Similarly, epoxy grout haze can be removed with an epoxy haze remover. These removers are formulated to safely and quickly remove cured epoxy haze from new tile installations. Their unique formulation will soften most epoxy hazes for easy removal without damaging the grout or tile, usually in one application. Sulfamic acid or grout removers should never be used on natural stone products.

Most tile installations use cementitious grouts. This type of grout should be sealed after installation to prevent it from staining. The grout should be sealed with a penetrating/impregnating sealer (often called grout sealers), which does not contain silicone, as silicone can shorten the useful life of the sealer. Epoxy grouts, conversely, are chemically cured and acid resistant, and as a result, do not require a sealer. The application of a good quality penetrating/impregnating sealer into the grout joints of a cementitious grout will not change the natural color of the grout, but will prevent the penetration of moisture, simplify maintenance, and help prevent staining or discoloration. Only the grout needs to be sealed, it is not required for glazed tiles to be sealed. Grout can be sealed 72 hours after installation.

There are different grades of penetrating/impregnating sealers. Be sure you are aware of the life-span of your sealer. You may need to reapply the sealer on an annual basis depending on the sealer quality, traffic patterns, and maintenance routine. Some sealers have multiple year warranties. Refer to the manufacturer warranty, technical & product information for specific details on product installation, useful life, and product applications (including any warnings) before use.

Neither sealing the grout nor using an epoxy grout will guarantee against surface buildup or discoloration of the grout. Grout needs to be cleaned on a periodic basis to remove any surface buildup. Routine grout cleaning can be done with a daily concentrated household or commercial cleaner depending on the application. When heavy-duty grout cleaning is required, you will need to use a professional strength tile and grout cleaner that is capable of removing grease, soap scum, body oil, mildew stains, algae, and synthetic or acrylic waxes from the grout joints. However, such a product should contain non-polluting chemicals and low VOC levels. This type of product can be purchased from most home centers, or through your local professional floor covering dealer.

 For most residues, all you need to clean your Solid Surface countertops is warm soapy water, ammonia-based household cleaner, or a dedicated countertop cleaner. Do avoid window cleaners, however, as they can leave a waxy build-up that dulls the surface. Always clean using a circular motion. 

Some common household substances like milk, whiskey, distilled water, vegetable oil, citric acid (10%), lye, household ammonia, iodine uid (10%), vinegar, pine oil, ketchup, naphtha, hydrogen peroxide (3%), household bleach, trisodium phosphate (5%), and isopropyl alcohol (90%) can be removed with water and a general kitchen cleaner. Crayon, lipstick, #2 pencil, coffee, mustard, and ethyl alcohol (90%) can be cleaned with a cleanser. We recommend cleaning permanent marker, black paste shoe polish, ball point pen, wet tea bag, acetone, and fingernail polish remover with cleanser and a Scotch-Brite® pad.

Most common cleaners, including oxalic acid solutions, dilute hydrochloric acid solutions, and dilute trisodium phosphate solutions, won’t harm the finish of your solid surface. Powdered abrasive cleansers, ammonia, and strong detergents are all safe. Avoid acidic drain cleaner, toilet cleaner, and oven cleaner; these can cause whitening which is difficult to remove.

You can easily restore your solid surface to a “like new” appearance with an abrasive cleaner and a Scotch-Brite® pad. These simple cleaning tools work well to remove surface stains from:

• Cigarette burns
• Alcohol
• Food
• Permanent markers
• Lipstick
• Iodine
• Hair dye
• Shoe polish
• Food dye
• Drinks
• Tea
• Other stubborn stains

If your solid surface is a fairly dark color, you can polish the surface with furniture polish to make it shine. Make sure you apply the polish according to the manufacturer’s instructions. If the surface is going to encounter food, Countertop Magic® is a safe option.

Your solid surface is designed with an impact resistant surface, which enables it to endure harsh use without becoming chipped, cracked, or broken. If your solid surface countertops do exhibit stubborn stains, scratches, and tiny cuts, they can easily be repaired with a few simple techniques.

If your surface has a matte/satin finish, we recommend a firm buffing with 220 grit sandpaper, followed with a Scotch-Brite® pad in little circles. If you have a semi-gloss surface, use 220 grit sandpaper first, then 320 grit, and then 400 grit. Apply an abrasive cleanser to a cloth and smooth the surface. A high-gloss finish must be restored by a professional.

An orbital sander (attached with a vacuum dust collector) can eliminate deeper dents. First, use 120 grit sandpaper, then 180-220 grit. If you want a matte finish, use a Scotch-Brite® buffing pad in small circles. If you want a semi-gloss, continue using the orbital sander with 320 grit sandpaper, then 400 grit. Finish by buffing with a Scotch-Brite®.

Some chemicals will damage your solid surface countertops. Avoid strong chlorinated solvents, ketones, methylene chloride (found in paint removers), chloroform, strong acids (i.e. concentrated sulfuric and hydrochloric acids), and acid drain cleaners. If these substances come in contact with your surface for even a short time, they can create stains or spots. Try washing stubborn stains thoroughly with water or full-strength bleach, just don’t let the bleach remain on your countertop for more than 5 minutes. If this doesn’t help, consider applying a buffing method mentioned above. Elongated exposure to these chemicals will require professional repair.

Always exhibit common sense when using your solid surface. Don’t set hot dishes directly on the countertop; always use hot mats or trivets. During food prep, don’t cut directly on your solid surface; always use a cutting board. We don’t recommend using heat-generating cookware like crockpots and electric skillets on your countertop.

If you have any questions about cleaning and maintaining your solid surfaces or are interested in professional architectural woodwork, we’d love to hear from you and see if our services will fit your needs. Contact us and let’s schedule a time to meet.